Climb Ecuador (ACE@) publishes a Anewsletter@ about 3 times a year with a trip report from it=s most recent trip, the schedule of upcoming trips, and other general climbing and travel news. The newsletter is emailed to everyone on Climb Ecuador=s email list, and is posted on our website, www.climbecuador.com, under the link ANewsletters.@ Reading our newsletter is a good way to stay in touch with our organization=s climbing and travel activities as well as to live a little vicariously if your job has you pinned down and you haven=t been able to get away for awhile. Anyone not wishing to receive our Newsletter via email, just click reply and type ARemove@ in any field.

ABOUT CLIMB ECUADOR: Climb Ecuador ran its first climbing trip in June 1999. We followed the same Ecuador Trip #1 itinerary that we offer today. That trip had 2 clients (businessmen from New York City) and cost $1250. Times have changed here at CE. We now offer trips to 4 different countries (soon to be 5, see below!) and have continually improved the level of service offered on our trips. But our underlying philosophy remains the same: to offer first class climbing trips at prices below those of bigger, more well-known climbing companies. When I look around at the trips other companies offer, and the prices they charge, I shudder in disbelief. Almost $5000 now for Denali, $4000+ for Aconcagua, $3300 for an 11-day trip to Ecuador, $2400 for a short 9-day trip to Mexico, in general, $200 to $300+ PER DAY for trips where many nights are spent camping in tents, with client-to-guide ratios of 4:1, and two or three clients per hotel room. Where does all this money go?? When I took my first big commercial trip (a 1995 Denali expedition), I spent close to $6000 total (which included some new equipment purchases) and got fried bologna and spaghetti for many meals, 3 people in a tent, guides who were not always that friendly, and a client-to-guide ratio on summit day of 5:1. With Climb Ecuador, I have tried to right these Awrongs.@ On all of our trips we guarantee a client-to-guide ratio of 2:1, one client per hotel room (in general, nice 3-star hotels, but in Bolivia, we stay at the 5-star Hotel Europa in La Paz), more trip money invested in food and other services while in the mountains, private vans for all transportation, personalized and flexible leadership, a better itinerary, and a lower trip price. I want clients to enjoy their trip, not to return home feeling they were gouged or ripped-off or short-changed. After all, a climbing trip may be the only vacation some people get for the whole year. Sure, in order to stay in business, CE needs to show some kind of profit, but with much lower overhead than bigger outfits, more of your trip money goes into your trip. This means that with Climb Ecuador, you will get more for your money, and will probably have a more enjoyable time.

Climb Ecuador ran it=s Abread and butter@ Ecuador ANew Year=s@ itinerary once again with great success. It seems the dates of Dec. 28 to Jan. 12 work well for many people because they can combine Christmas holiday vacation with regular vacation days to account for the 16 days required for this trip. We had 10 clients this time, a very good size group by CE standards. They were, in alphabetical order: Bertrand Cote, 50, Sherbrooke, Canada; Charles Fournier, 43, Quebec, Canada; Pavel Dolgonos, 66, Centennial, Colorado; Paul Hickman, 40, Springdale, Arkansas; Jon Maranville, 56, Bolton Landing, New York; Jeff Quinn, 31, Eagan, Minnesota; Grover Rose, 58, Saratoga, New York; Rusty Schlessman; Edward Sheridan, 60, Bolton Landing, New York; and Lygon Stevens, 18, Loveland, Colorado. All were newcomers to Climb Ecuador except for Grover who had participated in CE=s Aconcagua expedition in January 2005. Among this motley crew, we had the youngest (Lygon, 18 years old) and oldest (Pavel, 66 years young) CE clients ever, 2 former (never say Aex@!!) Marines, a newlywed, 2 Canucks and a backdoor specialist (for houses and garages, that is).

Trip=s Big News: Both Lygon and Pavel, our youngest and oldest clients, respectively (sorry to keep bringing this up, Pavel) summitted Cotopaxi (19,348 feet) together, on the same rope. This is big news indeed, but something you will just have to take my word on since neither was able to produce a decent photo of them together on the summit. Also, Rusty, Lygon and Charles went 4 for 4, that is they summitted all four mountains on the itinerary (Rucu, Iliniza Norte, Cotopaxi and Chimborazo) B not an easy task by any standard. AND, drum roll please, Lygon and Charles were the first CE clients ever to reach the Whymper summit of Chimborazo. The Whymper summit, 20,703 feet, is the highest summit of Chimborazo. The other summit, the Veintimilla summit, 20,550 feet, is the one many climbers turn around on. Just for the record, if you reach either of these two summits, you have Asummitted@ Chimborazo. But putting in the extra effort to reach the Whymper summit affords one additional bragging rights! The Whymper summit (named after Edward Whymper, the famous English mountaineer who traveled to Ecuador in a ship in the late 1880s and WALKED to and climbed all the major peaks in this country, laying down first ascents on: Chimborazo, Cayambe, Antisana, Carihuairazo, Sincholagua, Cotacachi and Sara Urca. He is also made the first ascent of the Matterhorn in Switzerland in 1865) is a mere 50 meters higher than the Veintimilla summit but requires hiking an additional 2-3 hours, going down then back up, often through soft, deep snow. Well done, Lygon and Charles!

Before we launch into the details of our Ecuadorian adventure, here=s a look at upcoming Climb Ecuador trips.

MEXICO VOLCANOES: (November/December 2006). 14 days. 3 mountains (La Malinche (14,640 feet), Ixta (17,126 feet) and Pico de Orizaba (18,405 B Mexico=s highest mountain and the 3^rd highest peak in North America). Trip price TBD. Add another country to CE=s list! I recently came back from a 10-day solo reconnaissance mission to Mexico to research what will soon become our climbing trip to Mexico. I will email everyone the final trip information (itinerary, dates and cost) soon. I plan to offer this trip in late November/early December, before the Christmas rush, and safely within the climbing season down there of November through February. A few quick notes: I will NOT be following the Arun up, run down, and run back to the airport@ approach followed by most other commercial outfitters. A common trip package offered by other U.S. climbing companies follows a quick 9-day, 2 mountain itinerary for close to $300 per day. This makes absolutely no sense to me. And again, where does all this money go? Why incur the expense of flying to Mexico only to turn around and run home after only 9 days? Trip will include a guided tour of fascinating Mexico City, a day at the awe-inspiring 2000-year-old pyramids at Teotihuacan and a guided tour of the city of Puebla. Stay tuned.

BOLIVIA: (May 22 B June 7, 2006). $2700. 17 days. Our tried and true Bolivia campaign. Includes FULLY SUPPORTED climbs of 4 mountains: Chacaltaya (the world=s highest ski resort!!), Pequeño Alpamayo (17,618 feet), Huayna Potosi (19,974 feet/6088 meters B the world=s Aeasiest@ 6000 meter peak), and Illimani (21,125 feet B Bolivia=s second highest mountain). (AFully supported@ means with: guides, porters, cooks, private transportation, food, mules, all tents, ropes, group climbing hardware and all cooking gear.) Trip price includes 8 nights, single occupancy, at the 5-star Hotel Europa in La Paz, as well as a day tour to Lake Titicaca, day and night tours of La Paz, and a trip to the 7^th century Indian ruins at Tihuanaco. Other less luxurious hotel accommodations are available in La Paz at a reduced trip price. Bolivia=s Cordillera Real mountain range has some of the most striking alpine scenery in all of South America. This is a great country to visit with climbing and trekking opportunities not to be missed.

PERU: (June 9 B June 29, 2006). $2900. 21 days. Fully supported (see definition above) climbs of Ishinca (18,138 feet), Urus (18,023 feet) and Huascaran (22,205 feet, Peru=s highest mountain). Trip culminates with an 8-day expedition to climb the coveted Huascaran. In 2003, Climb Ecuador followed this itinerary with great success B all clients summitted all 3 mountains, including Huascaran. In 2004, CE did not run a Peru trip. In 2005, we had 3 clients but we were unable to climb Huascaran due to high avalanche danger on that mountain. Instead we ran our final expedition on Chopicalqui (20,841 feet), situated right Abehind@ Huascaran. This summer, if Huascaran is closed due to avalanche danger, we will repeat our climb of Chopicalqui. There is also the possibility, depending on client interest, of following this 3-mountain itinerary: Pisco (18,867 feet), Chopicalqui (20,841 feet) and Huascaran (22,205 feet B assuming it is safe to climb). Pisco requires a 4-day expedition, Chopicalqui, a 6-day expedition, and Huascaran, an 8-day expedition, making this a 23-day trip for $3300 per person. Finally, for those more technically-inclined climbers, the mountain Alpamayo (19,511 feet B Athe world=s most beautiful mountain@) is another possibility. Anyone with ANY interest whatsoever in climbing or trekking in the beautiful Cordillera Blanca range of Peru, don=t hesitate to contact me B we have options.

MEXICO: (Late Nov./early Dec. 2006. Other dates possible.) 14 days. Fully supported climbs of La Malinche (14,640 feet), Ixta (17,126 feet) and Pico de Orizaba (18,405 feet). Inaugural CE run. With seasoned local help, as always. Full details to follow in a separate email.

ECUADOR: (Dec. 28, 2006 B Jan. 12, 2007). $2200. 16 days. 4 mountains: Rucu Pichincha (15,700 feet), Iliniza Norte (16,818 feet), Cotopaxi (19,348 feet B Ecuador=s second highest mt.) and Chimborazo (20,703 feet B Ecuador=s highest mt.) Our popular ANew Year=s climb.@ Includes use of Quito=s new cable car to get a head start on Rucu, guided tour of Quito=s Old Town, trip to Mitad Del Mundo (monument at the equator), Ashop til you drop@ tour of Indian markets in Otavalo, Cotacachi and San Antonio, 2 nights at the 400-year-old Hacienda La Cienega, 3 nights in the popular town of Baños, lavish Farewell Dinner at 5-star restaurant in Quito, all come STANDARD with this trip!!

ACONCAGUA: (January 14 B February 5, 2007). $3000 (does not include climbing permit). Fully supported expedition via the Normal Route. Includes extra acclimatization climb of the mountain, Bonete, (16,000 feet). Group porters for all group gear. Personal porters devoted solely to client, $550 extra. Highest mountain outside of Asia. CE is assisting a group for the Normal Route with a start date of Dec. 27, if the above dates do not work for you. Contact us for details.

OTHER TRIPS, OTHER DATES: CE will organize ANY trip for ANY dates with a minimum of 4 people in your group.

REFERRAL REWARD: If you refer someone to CE who then takes a CE trip and you will receive a referral reward of $100.

Here=s the trip itinerary, as posted on the CE website, and as followed by our group, with comments in parentheses.

DAY 1: Fly to Quito, Ecuador. Arrive at night. Check into the Hotel Ambassador.

(I arrived on Christmas Day B ahead of the group to get things ready. Bert and Charles arrived on Dec. 26. Others on Dec. 27. Last ones on Dec. 28. 10 strong. Plus me.)

DAY 2: Guided city tour of "Old Town" Quito. Lunch. Afternoon free.

(The weather was bright and sunny for the first full day of our tour. It is a CE tradition that the trip=s first breakfast is on CE! We enjoyed our Aget acquainted@ first meal at the popular Magic Bean restaurant in Quito. Eggs, bacon, home fries, pancakes, fresh squeezed juice, bottomless cup of coffee B the works. The tour of AOld Town@ started after that. We boarded for the first time the vehicle that was to be our main means of transportation for the entire trip B a long, shiny 40-seat bus. The transport company I always work with in Quito said that the 22-seat bus I had reserved developed some mechanical problems so they gave us a Afree upgrade.@ A 40-seat bus for 11 people B that=s the way to travel!

First we toured the 16^th and 17^th century buildings, plazas and churches of Quito=s AOld Town,@ then drove to the top of AEl Panecillo,@ a hill overlooking the entire city and nearby mountains for some photos. On our way back to the hotel, Rusty, Pavel and Jeff all fell victim to a pickpocket or team of pickpockets as we boarded a crowded public trolley bus. Rusty lost his camera, Pavel lost his wallet with some cash, driver=s license and credit cards, and Jeff lost $10. This was NOT in the brochure. The CE editorial department almost forbade me from mentioning this occurrence, but I pulled rank!! No secrets here at CE! We ended the day with a fun-filled dinner at the Shorton Steak House. Six, count >em, six bottles of wine were consumed in the blink of an eye. And we came down here to climb??)

DAY 3: Climb to the summit of Rucu Pichincha (15,706 feet). Return to hotel at night.

(We took advantage of the recently completed cable car which whisks people up from the center of Quito, to about 13,000 feet on the shoulder of Rucu Pichincha. We hiked to the summit from there, hiked back, and rode the cable car back to town. All summitted in fine fashion. Weather was good most of the day, with some haze and clouds on the summit.)

DAY 4: Visit the Mitad del Mundo monument at the equator, then onto the crater at Pululahua. Later, prepare for climb of Iliniza Norte.

(What would a trip to Ecuador be without swinging by the equator and getting your picture taken with one foot in the Northern Hemisphere and one foot in the Southern Hemisphere? Incomplete!!! We enjoyed excellent weather that day and could see from rim to rim of the vast, dormant volcanic crater of Pululahua. First appearance of frisbee. Tacos for lunch. Another animated group dinner, but I forget where.)

DAY 5: Travel south along the Pan American Highway (also known as the "Avenue of the Volcanoes") to the base of Iliniza Norte. Hike up to high mountain refuge (15,200 feet).

(We left the comfort and convenience of the Hotel Ambassador in Quito behind for the first time. We drove south and enjoyed views of the volcanoes Guagua and Rucu Pichincha, Atacazo, Pasachoa, El Corazon, Rumiñahui, Sincholagua, and Iliniza Norte and Sur. Assisted by horses who carried our big packs, we hiked up to the Arefugio@ at 15,200 feet, dramatically situated in the saddle between Iliniza Norte and Sur. Here we settled down to a dinner of soup, spaghetti with meat sauce, broccoli salad, and the ever present flan, before retiring for the evening.)

DAY 6: Climb to the summit of Iliniza Norte (16,818 feet). Descend to hut. Return to Quito. (Weather was perfect today! Before we started the climb to the summit, we detoured to an area behind the hut to view the sunrise over Cotopaxi. Antisana was also visible in the early morning light. With guides Efrain, Jose, myself and 10 clients, we all set out for the summit of Iliniza Norte. All reached the summit. We can see for miles in all directions from the top. We head back to the hut, pack our gear, put our large packs back on the horses, hike down to our bus and return to Quito.)

DAY 7: Visit Indian market towns of Otavalo, Cotacachi (leather), San Antonio de Ibarra (wood). (Our designated shopping day. Always a crowd favorite. With pockets stuffed with cash we descended on the these 3 market towns one at a time and cut a wide swath. We ate lunch at a popular restaurant, serving typical Ecuadorean food, in downtown Cotacachi. After making the final rounds in the town of San Antonio, we wearily found our places on the bus, made final comparisons of items purchased and eased down for the 3-hour ride back to Quito.)

DAY 8: Travel south to 400-year-old Hacienda La Cienega. Prepare for climb of Cotopaxi. (Staying at the centuries old Hacienda La Cienega is a journey back in time, and always a trip highlight. The people at this beautiful hacienda always welcome Climb Ecuador groups with open arms. But first things are first. After dropping our bags off in our rooms, we headed outside to one of the back fields, armed with bottles of wine and frisbees and played our own version of ultimate frisbee. Then came dinner. Followed by after dinner cordials. And bed. The civilized way to Aclimb@ Ecuador!

DAY 9: Drive through Cotopaxi National Park. View wild horses. Hike up to the Jose Ribas high mountain refuge (16,000 feet).

(We loaded up the bus with our backpacks and climbing gear, picked up our 5 Ecuadorean mountain guides, Rodrigo, Efrain, Jose, Maurizio and Carlos, in the nearby town of Lasso, bought 8 whole roasted chickens, and headed into Cotopaxi National Park for our two-day expedition up Ecuador=s second highest mountain. We spent the night in the 70-bed Jose Ribas Hut. After dinner we all immediately went to bed to try to get SOME sleep before our 12 midnight wake up call. The hut was full and noisy with many climbers from all over the world.)

DAY 10: Climb to the summit of Cotopaxi (19,348 feet). Return to Hacienda La Cienega.

(Today was a banner day for our group and for the history books of Climb Ecuador. 8 out of 10 clients summitted. Lygon, Bert, Charles, Paul, Rusty, Jeff, Jon and Pavel and reached the top and enjoy clear views of the surrounding landscape and the dark crater of Cotopaxi, despite the night being mostly foggy and gloomy. Lygon and Pavel, ascended on the same rope and became the youngest and oldest CE clients, respectively, to summit Cotopaxi. We all returned to the hut, drove back down out of the park and returned to La Cienega for a night of relaxation and celebration. Later on, Grover and Paul twisted my arm and made me find Maurizio, our driver, to have him drive us to the nearby town of Latacunga for a nightcap. Three people bombed and bombing down the Pan American Highway in a 40-seat bus for a nightcap in Latacunga. Only with CE.)

DAY 11: Leisurely morning. Travel in van to the town of Baños. Check into the Hotel Palace. (Baños is, without a doubt, my favorite town in Ecuador. After shivering the nights away in cold, damp, dark high mountain huts, arriving in the warm, almost tropical air of Baños is a real treat. We drove south from La Cienega, along the Pan American highway, through the towns of Latacunga, Ambato and Pelileo, under the watchful eye of the active volcano, Tungurahua before finally arriving in Baños. We checked into the Hotel Palace, one of the first hotels to be built in this town, and with its indoor and outdoor pools, jacuzzi, steam room, and sauna it is a great destination for a road weary bunch of gringos. First thing on our list: pizza and beer. Then we fanned out across the town on our own to explore its many shops, restaurants, cybercafes, bars, nightclubs, travel agencies, plazas, churches, etc. In the late afternoon, we traded in the frisbees for the basketball and played some spirited 3-on-3 ball with some locals. That night we enjoyed a spaghetti and wine party at the home of our guide Rodrigo and his wife, Marcela.)

DAY 12: Visit waterfalls near Baños. Enjoy canyon views. Soak in thermal hot springs.

(This was our final rest day before our climb of Chimborazo. We drove in our bus high up on a canyon road, downhill towards the jungle town of Puyo, stopping at 3 impressive waterfalls along the way: Agoyan, Manto de la Novia, (Veil of the Bride), and El Pailon del Diablo, (The Devil=s Cauldron). Along the way, Paul and Bert did some bungee jumping off a bridge. We also took an exhilarating ride across the canyon in a wobbly cable car to the top of the AVeil of the Bride@ waterfall. Back in Baños we had the rest of the afternoon free, before meeting for dinner and our final Apep@ talk before Chimborazo.)

DAY 13: Travel to Chimborazo, Ecuador's highest mountain. Go trout fishing along the way. View wild vicuñas. Trout dinner! Hike up to high mountain refuge (16,500 feet).

(The 4-hour ride from Baños to the high mountain hut on Chimborazo covers about 10,000 vertical feet (Baños is at 6600 feet; the hut is at 16,500 feet)! Normally we stop at a trout nursery near the mountain and actually fish for our dinner. Unfortunately this trout nursery is now out of business so we pre-bought all our fresh trout in the supermarket in Baños. I know, it=s just not the same, but there are lesser alternatives. The area around Chimborazo has been declared a national vicuña preserve (vicuñas are similar in appearance to llamas and alpacas but are smaller and thinner) and it is virtually guaranteed that you will spot some of these shy, four-legged creatures on the way in. And indeed we did. Once at the lower hut (Chimborazo has 2 huts B lower and upper), our cook, Rocio, who is also the guide Carlos= wife, along with Efrain did their Agalloping gourmet@ routine and whipped up a delicious dinner of soup, fried fresh trout, corn on the cob, and vegetable salad, with a peach cobbler for dessert. On full stomachs, and I mean FULL, we shouldered our loads and hiked 45 minutes to get from the lower hut to the upper hut. Here we had a quick tea and went to bed, in virtual fear of the 11 PM wake up call on the way.)

DAY 14: Climb to the summit of Chimborazo (20,703 feet/6310 meters). Descend to hut. Return to Baños. (Everyone was in decent form for the start of our climb of Chimborazo, except Jeff. He had acquired a stomach bug along the way and Aslept in.@ Lygon, Paul, Charles, Bert, Pavel, Rusty, Grover, Jon, Ed and I, accompanied by guides, Efrain, Rodrigo, Jose, Maurizio and Carlos, all set out for the top of Ecuador=s highest peak at around 12 midnight. Jon soon began coughing up phlegm and complained of a headache and some fatigue B all classic signs of altitude sickness B so Carlos instructed me to take him back to the hut. The others continued up. Ed, John, Grover, Pavel and Bert all reached a variety of altitudes on Chimborazo=s glaciated slopes before turning around. Charles, Lygon and Rusty eventually arrived together on the Veintimilla summit (20,550 feet). Charles and Lygon pushed on with guide, Jose, and reached the Whymper summit (20,703 feet), the highest point on the mountain, becoming the first CE clients EVER to reach this coveted piece of real estate. We all met back at the hut, exchanged stories, packed up our packs, descended to the bus waiting at the lower hut and drove back to Baños.

DAY 15: Spend the morning in Baños. Return to hotel in Quito. Farewell dinner.

(Our final full day in Ecuador. We took one last group photo in front of the Hotel Palace before boarding the bus for the 3-hour ride back to Quito. Baños had treated us well once again. Once back in Quito, we frantically did some last minute shopping, and got ready for the famous Climb Ecuador Farewell Dinner. I knew what this group was capable of so I ran out to the liquor store to bolster my already respectable supply of red wines for tonight=s blowout. We rode in a van to AEl Mare Nostrum@ Quito=s best, 5-star seafood restaurant, where the festivities erupted. I spent much of the night in a mild form of shock anticipating being handed the final bill, but a deal is a deal. We gorged on lobster, octopus, shrimp, cod, langostinos, mussels and whatever else they put in front of us that wasn=t moving and washed it all down with numerous bottles of wine, before saying Ano mas@ and heading for the door. We said our goodbyes in the lobby of the Hotel Ambassador and retired to our rooms to do some last minute packing, and to reflect on another memorable CE adventure.)

DAY 16: Fly home. Buen viaje !!

That=s it. Thanks for hanging in there and reading along. Remember, Bolivia, Peru and Ecuador this summer, Mexico in early December (separate email with trip itinerary, dates and cost, to follow soon), the Ecuador New Year=s climb at the end of the year, and finally Aconcagua. Whew!! I don=t think all these trips will actually happen but it=s nice to dream. We=ll see. Take care and keep in touch.

Roger Kovary

CLIMB ECUADOR
147 West 79^th Street, #1D
New York, NY 10024
(212) 362-4721

www.climbecuador.com

rkovary@aol.com

rkovary@gmail.com